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Gascony Diary
This morning, as
I drove to the top of our lane, the view of the
Pyrenees was sharp and blue-white on the
horizon. The mountains had managed to cover
themselves with deep white snow whilst we had
been struggling with a week of alternate hard
frosts and freezing rain here in the Gers. One
of the best things about living here, without
doubt, is that when the winter comes finally to
herald two or three months of woodfires ,woolly
jumpers and well-thumbed paperbacks, it brings
too, glorious days on the mountains.
Once a week or
even once a fortnight, a trip up to the ski
stations above the clouds where they are bathed
in bright blue skies and sunshine is a tonic for
the winter blues that no health spa or sunbed
could hold a candle to. Already the box of ski
clothes has been investigated and gloves,
goggles and polo neck sweaters have tumbled to
the bedroom floor. Last year we spent Boxing Day
on the slopes until the hot sun turned to a
white-out in the afternoon and most people
turned for home, slowly driving down the
mountainside on the snow-covered roads. If this
winter has half so much snow as last it will be
a brilliant season for those of us who can
indulge in enjoying the snow and cold.
For the wildlife
of course it’s a different matter. Mice and tiny
shrews are fighting their way back into the
house whenever and where ever they can. The pair
of kestrels who nest in the oak tree across the
lane and have spent all summer and autumn
scouring our fields for food have recently taken
to landing on the top of our bedroom shutters,
perching precariously and screeching and talking
loudly for reasons I can’t discover. Perhaps
they are intent on taking their share of the
many house sparrows that live in the eaves
But it’s not all
cold and inclement weather by any means. Many
days, including today, are warm and sunny and
allow us to continue planting fruit trees,
moving plants, even mowing the lawn. ! It’s also
a time of year when the French get out on their
much-loved randonnees. Signed routes for
walkers, cyclists, riders and pony and trap
drivers which start at about 9.am on a Sunday
morning with everyone meeting up at the salle
des fetes , where it normally starts, and then
meeting again afterwards for lunch. It’s a
wonderful way to spend an autumn or bright
winters day in this fabulous countryside,
travelling through sweet chestnut woods,
vineyards, large, flat maize fields or rolling
pastureland. Virtually no traffic even where the
routes meet a road and all have been very well
signed - we only got lost once! And before we
know it - it will be Spring again…..
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